Hidden gem
Linderhof Palace
Ettal, Germany
Schloss Linderhof
Ludwig II's rococo palace and Wagner-opera grotto in a quiet Alpine valley near Ettal.
Checked 6 October 2026

Linderhof is the only palace King Ludwig II lived to see finished: a compact rococo villa with a garden of fountains and fantasy buildings, including the Venus Grotto, an artificial cave that reopened in 2025 after a ten-year restoration. From 16 October to 14 April only the palace is open (10:00–16:30), on a 25-minute guided tour at a set time; the grotto, which needs its own ticket, and the park buildings open again from 15 April. Tickets are much easier to get than at Neuschwanstein: the €11 palace ticket, the same price all year, can be booked online with no fee, and the cash desk usually still has tickets when the online quota has gone.
About Linderhof Palace
Linderhof sits on its own in the Graswang Valley in the Ammergau Alps, about 10 km west of Ettal, with forest and mountains on every side and no village around it. The palace is small, about 30 by 27 metres, but every room is gilded, mirrored and packed with detail. Around it lies a formal garden of terraces, cascades and fountains that melts into a landscape park with a cave, a Moorish pavilion and a hunting hut from a Wagner opera.
It began as the forester's house where Ludwig stayed as a boy on hunting trips with his father, King Maximilian II. From 1869 Ludwig enlarged it piece by piece, clad the wooden core in stone in 1873, and moved the old forester's house 200 metres aside to make room for the entrance wing. Plans for a full Versailles in the valley and a Byzantine palace were dropped. What stands is a 'Royal Villa' modelled on the rococo of Louis XV, the king Ludwig idolised, and the only one of his palaces he finished and actually lived in.
Ludwig was a night owl who slept by day and lived alone here for long stretches. The rooms show it: a bedroom with a 108-candle chandelier, a Hall of Mirrors that turns candlelight into an endless corridor, and a dining table that sank into the kitchen below so he could eat without servants in the room. Up the hill he had the Venus Grotto built in 1875–77 as a stage for the first act of Wagner's Tannhäuser, lit in changing colours by one of the world's first electric power stations, with a lake, a waterfall and a golden shell boat.
Since 2025 Linderhof has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site together with Neuschwanstein, Herrenchiemsee and the King's House on Schachen. It gets far fewer visitors than Neuschwanstein, and it shows more of Ludwig's private world: the rooms he actually lived in, the grotto he was rowed around in, and a park that is free to walk.
What to see
The Hall of Mirrors and the Bedroom
The two set pieces of the 25-minute palace tour. The Hall of Mirrors, where Ludwig read through the night, uses facing mirrors to make the room seem endless. The bedroom, enlarged in 1885–86 and not quite finished when he died, has the bed on a raised dais behind a gilded balustrade and a glass chandelier for 108 candles. No photos inside.
The 'Tischlein deck dich' dining table
The dining room's table was lowered on a lift into the kitchen, laid with the next course and raised again, so the king could dine alone. Ask the guide about it if they move on quickly; groups of up to 40 go through every 5–10 minutes.
Venus Grotto
A 90-metre artificial dripstone cave, up to 14 metres high, with an underground lake, a gilded shell boat, a painting of Tannhäuser and Venus and the restored shell and crystal thrones. It reopened in 2025 after restoration from 2015 to 2025 and is lit again in the historic colours. Seen only on a 15-minute guided tour (up to 50 people, every 20 minutes) with a separate ticket, and only from 15 April to 15 October. It is 50 metres above the palace on a steep path: allow 30–45 minutes from the ticket office.
The fountains and the Water Parterre
From 15 April to 15 October the gilded Flora fountain in front of the palace shoots up to about 25 metres every half hour from 9:00 to 18:00, and the cascade of 30 marble steps behind the palace runs down to the Neptune fountain. In October 2026 the main fountain was switched off because of a water shortage after the hot summer; the other water features were running.
Hunding's Hut and Gurnemanz Hermitage
Two stage sets from Wagner operas built in the woods: a rough Germanic hunting hut from Die Walküre (rebuilt in 1990 after a fire) and a hermit's hut from Parsifal. Free to look into from 11:00 to 18:00 in summer; closed in winter.
Moroccan House and Moorish Kiosk
Ludwig bought both from world's fairs: the Moroccan House (Vienna 1873) is open in summer without a ticket. The Moorish Kiosk, with its peacock throne, is under scaffolding for façade and roof repairs and cannot be seen inside or out; the palace administration hopes to reopen it at the start of the 2028 season.
The Royal Lodge exhibition
The original forester's house that Linderhof grew from, moved 200 metres in 1874, now holds an exhibition on how the hunting lodge became a palace. €2 at the door. It is the one park building open in winter, on Sundays, holidays and Bavarian school holidays from 12:00 to 16:30.

Linderhof Palace tickets: which to buy and where
Buy the timed palace ticket (€11, under 18 free) in the official Linderhof ticket shop, or the €18 palace and Venus Grotto combination in summer, and pick slots at least 45 minutes apart. There is no booking fee and tickets are rarely sold out, but the time is fixed: you cannot join a later tour if you miss yours, and tickets cannot be changed or refunded.
The official ticket site
Schloss- und Gartenverwaltung Linderhof (Bavarian Palace Administration) ticket shop
The official online shop is ticketshop-schlosslinderhof.de, linked from the palace's own site schlosslinderhof.de and from the Bavarian Palace Administration (schloesser.bayern.de). It sells only three things: Ticket Palace (€11), Ticket Grotto (€9) and the Palace & Grotto combination (€18), with no booking fee. Only part of the day's tickets are sold online; the cash desk by the car park sells the rest.
Ticket Palace (guided tour of Linderhof Palace)
€11 adult, €10 reduced; under 18 free
Official ticketsSkips the ticket line
- Includes
- A 25-minute guided tour in German or English at a fixed time, up to 40 people; the park and the free park buildings
- Best for
- Everyone, and the only ticket you can get from 16 October to 14 April
Official site · as of October 2026See this ticket → (opens in a new tab)Combined tariff Palace & Grotto
€18 adult, €16 reduced; under 18 free
Official ticketsSkips the ticket line
- Includes
- Timed guided tours of the palace (25 minutes) and the Venus Grotto (15 minutes), each starting at its own building; 15 April to 15 October only
- Best for
- A summer visit: it saves €2 on the two tickets bought separately
Official site · as of October 2026See this ticket → (opens in a new tab)Ticket Grotto (Venus Grotto)
€9 adult, €8 reduced; under 18 free
Official ticketsSkips the ticket line
- Includes
- A 15-minute guided tour of the restored grotto (up to 50 people, every 20 minutes), starting at the grotto entrance; closed 16 October to 14 April
- Best for
- Visitors who have seen the palace before, or who have a 14-day or annual pass for the palace
Official site · as of October 2026See this ticket → (opens in a new tab)Same-day ticket at the Linderhof cash desk
Same prices: €11 palace, €9 grotto, €18 combination
Official ticketsDoes not skip lines
- Includes
- The same timed tours, from the share of tickets not sold online. Cash desk open 8:30–17:30 (15 April–15 October) and 9:30–16:00 in winter
- Best for
- Spontaneous visits, and when the online shop shows no slots left
Official cash desk (by the car park) · as of October 2026See this ticket → (opens in a new tab)Royal Lodge exhibition
€2 adult, €1 reduced
Official ticketsDoes not skip lines
- Includes
- The exhibition 'From Lynder-Hof estate to Linderhof Palace' in the old forester's house; ticket sold only at the lodge door
- Best for
- Visitors with time between tours, and winter visitors
Official (at the Royal Lodge) · as of October 2026See this ticket → (opens in a new tab)
How to buy
- Start at schlosslinderhof.de (the Bavarian Palace Administration's palace site) and follow the link to the ticket shop, or check that you are on ticketshop-schlosslinderhof.de.
- Choose Ticket Palace, or between 15 April and 15 October the Palace & Grotto combination. Pick a date, language (German or English) and time for each building. Leave at least 30 minutes from arrival to the palace tour and 45 minutes between the palace and the grotto: the grotto is 50 metres higher up a steep path.
- Choose regular or reduced; under-18s get free tickets. Bring the original proof for any reduction or free ticket, because it is checked on site and cannot be applied later.
- Pay online and keep the QR code on your phone or printed. Online tickets cannot be changed, rebooked or refunded.
- On the day, walk straight past the cash desk queue to the palace entrance (about 400 m, 10 minutes) and wait in the area in front of the palace until your tour is called. The grotto tour starts at the grotto entrance.
Look-alike sites
Linderhof has fewer copycat ticket sites than Neuschwanstein, but searches still bring up reseller pages and day-trip listings that use the palace name and photos. The palace's own site is schlosslinderhof.de, and its only online shop is ticketshop-schlosslinderhof.de, which shows '© Bayerische Schlösserverwaltung' at the bottom and sells the palace for €11, the grotto for €9 and the combination for €18, with no booking fee. A page that charges more than that for a plain entry ticket, adds 'service fees', or charges for children (under-18s are free) is not the official seller.
We can never guarantee a ticket seller, tour company or deal. Prices, opening hours and what is included change, often without notice: check the details on the seller’s own page before you pay, and book through the official site where you can. How to avoid ticket scams · Disclaimer.
Guided tours of Linderhof Palace
Every ticket includes the palace's own guided tour, so you never need to pay for a guide to see the inside. A paid tour is worth it for the transport: Linderhof is awkward to reach by public transport from Munich, and coach day trips combine it with Neuschwanstein. The catch is time: most give you about 1.5 hours at Linderhof, which is enough for the palace tour and the gardens near it, but not for the Venus Grotto.
Included guided tour
Official guided tour of the palace and the Venus Grotto
Bavarian Palace Administration (palace staff)
Live tours in German and English only. Palace tours of up to 40 people leave every 5–10 minutes; grotto tours of up to 50 every 20 minutes. For other languages, you can download a room-by-room description as an mp3 via a QR code.
Included in the €11 palace ticket; grotto €9, or €18 for both
See this tour → (opens in a new tab)Coach day trip with guide
From Munich: Neuschwanstein & Linderhof Castle Full-Day Trip
Gray Line Munich Day ToursLinderhof comes first (about 2 hours from Munich), with the palace tour optional and no Venus Grotto; then a drive through Oberammergau without stopping and about 2 hours in Hohenschwangau. Guides in English and German, recorded commentary in eight more languages. The 'late departure' option skips Linderhof altogether. Not suitable for wheelchair users.
from €76; palace tickets for Linderhof and Neuschwanstein €42 extra (card only, bought on the bus), or an option with tickets included
See this tour → (opens in a new tab)Coach day trip with guide
Neuschwanstein Castle and Linderhof Palace Day Trip from Munich
Mentor Reisen (Munich coach operator), sold on ViatorMeets at 8:45 at Sonnenstraße 1 by Karlsplatz (Stachus); arrives at Linderhof around 10:45 and stays 1 hour 30 minutes, then about 4 hours at Neuschwanstein. Entry tickets for both castles (about €37 adult) are sold on the coach by card only. English-speaking guide.
€72–76 without entry; €125 with entrance fees; €195 VIP small-group option with entry
See this tour → (opens in a new tab)Guide for a group with its own coach
Culture and nature trip: Wieskirche, Oberammergau, Ettal and Linderhof
Füssen Tourismus und Marketing
A local guide from Füssen's tourist office joins your coach for a loop via the Wieskirche, a guided walk in Oberammergau, Ettal Abbey and the Linderhof park, with the palace tour optional, then back via the Plansee. German or English. Only for groups with their own bus, booked on request.
€320 per group (plus €35 for a foreign language, €20 on Sundays); entrance fees extra
See this tour → (opens in a new tab)
We can never guarantee a ticket seller, tour company or deal. Prices, opening hours and what is included change, often without notice: check the details on the seller’s own page before you pay, and book through the official site where you can. How to avoid ticket scams · Disclaimer.
Linderhof Palace deals and discounts
The official ticket is the best buy, and under-18s go free. The real saving is the Bavarian Palace Administration's 14-day ticket if you are also visiting Neuschwanstein, Herrenchiemsee or Munich's palaces; and the €18 combination saves €2 over separate palace and grotto tickets.
Free for under-18s
Children and teenagers under 18 enter free; they still need a free timed ticket, online or at the cash desk. Children under 14 must be with an adult. Pupils over 18 at Bavarian general and vocational schools also go free with a student ID.
14-day ticket and annual pass (Bavarian Palace Administration)
€40 for one person or €80 for two adults and their children for 14 days from first use (annual pass €55 / €100), covering more than 40 state palaces including Linderhof, Neuschwanstein, Herrenchiemsee, Nymphenburg and the Munich Residenz. Linderhof (€11) and Neuschwanstein (€21) alone cost less, so it pays off once you add a third palace. You still need a free timed ticket for the tour: at Linderhof you can book it online in the official shop or collect it at the cash desk. No separate quota is kept for pass holders. Passes bought online are posted (slowly abroad), so buy it at the first palace's cash desk instead. Not valid at Hohenschwangau Castle or the King's House on Schachen.
Palace & Grotto combination
€18 instead of €20 for the palace (€11) and the Venus Grotto (€9) bought separately; reduced €16. Only from 15 April to 15 October, when the grotto is open.
Reduced tickets
€10 instead of €11 for the palace (€8 for the grotto, €16 combination) for students with a student card, disabled visitors (an escort goes free if the disability card says one is needed) and people doing voluntary or community service. Show the original proof at the entrance.
The park is free
You do not need a ticket to walk the gardens, the cascade and the terraces, or to look into the Moroccan House, Hunding's Hut and Gurnemanz Hermitage in summer. Only the palace, the Venus Grotto and the Royal Lodge exhibition are ticketed.
Bayern-Ticket from Munich
A day ticket for regional trains and buses across Bavaria: €34 for one person, €44 for two (2nd class). It covers the train to Oberammergau and the bus to Linderhof. On weekdays it is valid from 9:00.
Best time to visit Linderhof Palace
Time of day: day-trip coaches from Munich arrive from about 10:30 and fill the palace tours until early afternoon. The first tours at 9:00, or tours after about 15:00, are calmer. Check the last bus before booking a late slot.
Season: go between 15 April and 15 October if you can. Only then are the Venus Grotto, the Moroccan House, Hunding's Hut and Gurnemanz Hermitage open and the fountains running (every half hour, 9:00–18:00). In winter only the palace and, on Sundays and holidays, the Royal Lodge are open, many statues are boxed in, and the park buildings' opening and closing dates move with the weather.
Late spring and early autumn have the fewest people with everything still open. The palace administration warns of long waits at the royal palaces in summer, but Linderhof's queues are short next to Neuschwanstein's.
Avoid the closing days (1 January, Shrove Tuesday and 24, 25 and 31 December). Pick a dry day: much of the visit is outdoors on steep paths, and the road to Austria past the palace can close in snow and ice.
Tips and tricks
Gathered from travel forums, locals and the sight’s own advice, rewritten in our own words. What worked for others, not a guarantee.
Book the grotto at least 45 minutes after the palace
The grotto is 50 metres above the palace on paths with up to 20% gradient, and the shop itself says to allow 30–45 minutes from the ticket office. A late arrival is not let in and cannot join a later tour.
From Linderhof ticket shop and schlosslinderhof.de, 2026
Do not queue at the cash desk with an online ticket
With a QR code you go straight to the palace or grotto entrance. Only people buying on the day need the cash desk.
From schlosslinderhof.de, admission page, 2026
If online shows sold out, go anyway
Only part of each day's tickets are sold online. The palace says the cash desk usually still has tickets, and travel writers report that same-day tickets are usually available.
From schlosslinderhof.de and European Traveler, 2026
Watch the fountain on the half hour
The Flora fountain in front of the palace jumps every 30 minutes in season. Stand by the Water Parterre or climb to the Temple of Venus on the terrace above for the view over the jet to the palace. In October 2026 it was off because of a water shortage, so check the palace's news before planning around it.
From schlosslinderhof.de, opening hours page, 2026
Leave big bags at the lockers
Rucksacks, large bags and camera gear are not allowed in the palace. Lockers for big items are opposite the Schlosshotel, and smaller lockers by the toilets near the palace. Prams can be left at the palace entrance.
From schlosslinderhof.de, general information, 2026
No photos inside, no drones anywhere
Photography and filming are banned in the palace, the Venus Grotto and the Royal Lodge. The grounds are part of the Ammergebirge nature reserve, so drones are banned too. Photos of the outside for private use are fine.
From schlosslinderhof.de, general information, 2026
Use the bus change to see Ettal
If your connection leaves a gap in Ettal, get off and look into the abbey church: it is free and open 8:00–18:00 outside services. It is on the same bus line as Linderhof.
From European Traveler and Kloster Ettal, 2026
Allow half a day on a combined tour
Coach trips that pair Linderhof with Neuschwanstein usually give about 1.5 hours here. That covers the palace tour and the gardens next to it but rarely the Venus Grotto, and visitors on forums say Linderhof is best seen slowly in good weather.
From Viator and GetYourGuide listings, 2026; Fodor's Europe forum (search snippets)

How to get to Linderhof Palace
- By public transport from Munich: regional train to Oberammergau (one or two trains, usually changing at Murnau), then bus 316 to the stop Linderhof, Schloss. The bus was called 9622 until the Garmisch-Partenkirchen district joined the Munich transport network (MVV) on 1 January 2026; the palace's own site still uses the old number. The ride from Oberammergau station via Ettal takes about 30 minutes, with buses roughly every hour; the last buses back leave around 17:00–18:00. Allow about 2.5 hours door to door in the morning.
- From Oberau and Austria: on weekends and holidays from 1 May to 27 September 2026, bus 319 (formerly 9624) ran from Oberau station via Ettal and Linderhof to the Plansee and Reutte in Tyrol, with connections from Munich. It does not run on weekdays or in autumn and winter.
- By car: A95 from Munich, then the B2 to Oberau, the B23 through Ettal, and left onto the St2060 into the Graswang Valley; the palace is about 10 km past Ettal. Coach tours take about 2 hours from central Munich. The road on to Reutte in Austria is a shortcut to Neuschwanstein, but it can close in ice and snow.
- Parking: a paid car park with 550 spaces and 14 coach bays, plus 10 electric charging points. The palace does not publish the rate; visitors reported paying by card. Six disabled bays, free for holders of a severe-disability card. The ticket office is about 260 m from the car park, and the palace about 400 m further.
- Combining with Neuschwanstein: by car you can drive between them via Reutte in Austria (the shortcut, closed to vehicles over 16 tonnes) or via Oberammergau and the Wieskirche. By public transport both in one day is barely possible; a coach day trip is the practical way.
Scams and problems to watch for
Paying a reseller for an €11 ticket
Ticket and tour sites use the palace's name and photos and sell 'entry' at a mark-up, sometimes with service fees. The official shop is ticketshop-schlosslinderhof.de with no booking fee, and the cash desk sells the same tickets at the same price. Anything above €11 for the palace, or any charge for under-18s, is not the official price.
Ticket packages on day-trip coaches
Coach tours sell palace tickets on the bus as a bundle: one large operator charges €42 per adult for Linderhof and Neuschwanstein 'including reservation and system fees' and €10 per child, where buying yourself costs €11 plus €21 and a €2.50 fee, and children enter both palaces free (apart from Neuschwanstein's €2.50 booking fee). The convenience may be worth it, but check the price for children before you pay.
Day trips that give 1.5 hours or skip Linderhof
Combined Neuschwanstein and Linderhof trips typically stop about 1.5 hours here, with the palace tour optional and no Venus Grotto. Some 'late departure' or 'no Linderhof' options drop it entirely. Read the itinerary for the time at Linderhof and whether the grotto is included.
Expecting the grotto, the kiosk or the fountains
The Venus Grotto needs its own ticket and is closed from 16 October to 14 April; the Moorish Kiosk is under scaffolding until at least 2028; the park buildings close in winter; and the main fountain was switched off in October 2026 for lack of water. A tour advertising 'Linderhof with Venus Grotto' in winter cannot deliver it.
Missing your tour slot
Tickets are for a fixed time and cannot be changed or refunded, and you cannot join a later tour. People who park at the last minute lose their slot: from the car park it is 10–15 minutes to the palace and up to 45 minutes to the grotto.
Stranded after the last bus
The palace and park stay open until 18:00 in summer, but the last buses back to Oberammergau leave around 17:00–18:00 and fewer run at weekends. Check the bus 316 timetable on mvv-muenchen.de before booking a late tour.
Accessibility
The palace has no lift, but a mobile stair-climber (up to 120 kg) gets wheelchair users to the ground floor and the first floor, whose rooms are step-free with doorways at least 85 cm wide; if your wheelchair does not fit the device, the palace lends one that does. Contact the administration in advance so staff and the stair-climber can be arranged. The paths are asphalt, gravel and smooth cobbles with gradients up to 10–12.5%: 260 m from the car park to the ticket office, 400 m on to the palace, and 600 m to the Venus Grotto, whose entrance and inside paths are step-free (the exit tunnel slopes more than 6%). The palace advises wheelchair users to bring an escort for the whole visit. The Royal Lodge has step-free access; Hunding's Hut has a ramp with staff help; the Moroccan House, Moorish Kiosk and Gurnemanz Hermitage have steps. Wheelchairs and walkers can be borrowed at the ticket office against a deposit, there are six disabled parking bays (free with a severe-disability card), Euro-key toilets at the car park (summer), the palace and the grotto, and an induction loop at the ticket office. Disabled visitors pay the reduced price and a registered escort goes free.
Combine it with
Neuschwanstein Castle
On SightsaleLudwig's most famous castle, reached by car via Reutte in Austria or via Oberammergau and the Wieskirche, and run by the same palace administration. The two are the classic day trip from Munich; book Neuschwanstein's timed ticket first, because it sells out and Linderhof rarely does.
Ettal Abbey
A Benedictine monastery founded in 1330, 10 km down the valley on the bus route, with a baroque basilica on an unusual figure-of-eight plan under a large dome. The church is free and open 8:00–18:00 outside services, and the Bräustüberl next door has a beer garden.
Oberammergau
The village of the Passion Play (next in 2030), 20–30 minutes away by bus. Walk its streets for the Lüftlmalerei, the painted house fronts, and the woodcarving workshops; the train back to Munich leaves from here.
Plansee
A clear Alpine lake just over the Austrian border, 20 to 30 minutes west by car along the valley road from Linderhof, on the way to Reutte and Neuschwanstein. In summer weekend bus 319 also stops there.
Wieskirche
A rococo pilgrimage church in a meadow on the road between Oberammergau and Neuschwanstein. Easy to fit into a driving day, hard to reach by bus on the same day.

Questions people ask about visiting Linderhof Palace
Do you need to book Linderhof Palace tickets in advance?
Usually not. Only part of each day's tickets are sold online, and the palace says the cash desk usually still has tickets when the online quota has gone. Booking online (no fee, as of October 2026) is still worth it on summer weekends and to fix your tour times; if you are on a tight schedule, book it.
How much does Linderhof Palace cost?
As of October 2026: €11 for the palace (€10 reduced), €9 for the Venus Grotto (€8 reduced) and €18 for both (€16 reduced). The grotto and combination tickets are only sold from 15 April to 15 October. Under-18s are free, and the park is free to walk.
Is the Venus Grotto at Linderhof open?
Only in summer. It reopened in 2025 after a restoration from 2015 to 2025 and is open from 15 April to 15 October, 9:00–18:00, on 15-minute guided tours with its own ticket. From 16 October to 14 April it is closed, so a winter visit is the palace only; the palace notes that the park buildings' opening and closing dates can shift with the weather.
Can you visit Linderhof Palace in winter?
Yes: the palace is open 10:00–16:30 from 16 October to 14 April, with the same €11 guided tour (there is no cheaper winter ticket). The Venus Grotto, the Moroccan House, Hunding's Hut and Gurnemanz Hermitage are closed, and the fountains do not run. The Royal Lodge exhibition opens on Sundays, holidays and in the Bavarian school holidays, 12:00–16:30.
How long do you need at Linderhof?
From mid-April to mid-October, three to four hours to do it properly: a 25-minute palace tour, a 15-minute grotto tour, the walk up to the grotto and around the park, and time for the fountain on the half hour. In winter, with only the palace open, 1.5 to 2 hours is enough.
Can you see Neuschwanstein and Linderhof in one day?
Yes, by car or on a coach day trip from Munich, which takes about 10 to 10.5 hours and usually gives 1.5 hours at Linderhof. By public transport it is barely possible. Book the Neuschwanstein slot first and fit Linderhof around it.
How do you get to Linderhof Palace by public transport?
Take the train from Munich to Oberammergau, then bus 316 to Linderhof, Schloss, about 30 minutes via Ettal and roughly hourly. The line was numbered 9622 until 1 January 2026, and the palace's own website still uses the old number. Allow about 2.5 hours from Munich, and check the last bus back, which leaves around 17:00–18:00.
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- From
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- From
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Before you go
The things that apply at every big sight: booking ahead, what skip-the-line really means, and the scams that follow tourists everywhere.